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Wasatch Strong Woman Challenge – West Slabs of Olympus and South Ridge of Superior

Ski mountaineering brings together so many disciplines of mountain sports. You have to have the endurance of an ultra-runner, the mountain sense of a seasoned mountaineer, the technical skills of an ice and rock climber, and the power and precision of a ski racer. Last summer, I worked hard on my fitness and endurance. This summer, my goal is to become a competent rock climber. I’ve been a climber for most of my life, but this summer, I’m working hard to become confident on the sharp end on all types of rock, but especially leading trad. I spent much of May climbing sandstone desert towers around Moab. Lately, I’ve been climbing quartzite in Big Cottonwood, granite in Little Cottonwood and limestone at Hellgate.

Overall, I love climbing! And I love the challenge of placing gear and leading. But sometimes, it can feel so tedious. I love the feeling of moving fast in the mountains. So this past Saturday, I decided to take a break from ropes and do two of the longer alpine climbs in the Wasatch, back to back. All told, it’s over 6,000′ of elevation gain, and around 2,000′ of fifth class terrain. It was a great physical and mental challenge, and I enjoyed doing both these classic routes in one day.

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Approaching the West Slabs of Mt. Olympus with Alex Taran. She is a fellow pro skier here in the Wasatch and also the founder of the South American Beacon Project, whose goal is to bring free avalanche education to South American communities. I’ve always been inspired by her projects, and it was great to climb the West Slabs with her.

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Continuing up the trail.

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I decided to bring a 30 m section of rope just in case we wanted to use it. Better to have it and not need it, than vice versa.

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Beginning the scramble up the gully to the base of the West Slabs.

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The beginning of the route.

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The rock quality is really superb!

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Every since I first moved to Salt Lake, I wanted to climb the West Slabs. It was my second time on the route and it’s even more awesome than I remember.

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Taking a little break to check out the views.

 

 

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Continuing the scramble. There are so many different ways you can climb the West Slabs – it’s fun to pick your own adventure.

 

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The views of the city are spectacular.

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And then downclimbing… I downclimbed the ridge next to the gully West of the Slabs. I chose to stay on the rock ridge instead of the gully because the gully is full of loose choss, there were other parties rappeling on it, and it’s a pretty moderate downclimb. After the West Slabs, I went and grabbed some lunch, had a drink of water and went right up to the South Ridge of Superior.

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Walking by the Gas-X on the approach to the South Ridge of Superior. According to the Utah Department of Transportation (UDOT)’s website, “UDOT is making efforts to move away from the use of military artillery for avalanche control. New Gas-X exploder systems have been installed at known avalanche sites.”

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Enjoying the cold front.

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Beginning the spicy ridge climbing.

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Such an awesome time of year in Little Cottonwood, with snow up high and green down low.

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Feeling strong on my strong woman challenge!

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The last bit of rock to the summit of Superior.

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And the walk-off down the ridge, past Little Superior to Cardiff pass and down the trail.

Overall, a fun day climbing in the mountains!

Gear, West Slabs:

Patagonia Evermore Shoes 

Patagonia Capilene 1 Silkweight Graphic Crew

Elemental Herbs All Good Sport Sunscreen SPF 33

Elemental Herbs All Good Lips SPF 20 Ultra Zinc Protection

Gregory Pace 8 backpack

Zeal Optics Memphis Sunglasses

Clif Shot Energy Gel

Coal Headwear Richmond Cap

Gear, South Ridge:

Patagonia Houdini Jacket

Patagonia Tsali 3.0 Shoes

 

In The Woods

I recently did a photo shoot with photographer Alexa Miller near Alta, UT. I love how the shots turn out – here are a few of them:
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Usually, when I shoot with Alexa, we focus on more of a fun, vibrant vibe but this time we went for something with a moody, darker feel. It was out of my norm, but it’s nice to have some diversity in my portfolio. Overall, a fun, productive shoot!

First ice lead, Ouray, CO

Today was my second day in Ouray, CO and my 5th day ice climbing ever. I’ve been wanting to get into ice climbing to give me the skill sets necessary to tackle some ski mountaineering objectives (for example, the Great White Icicle and Triangle Couloir in the Wasatch- as part of my project to ski all the lines in The Chuting Gallery).

After a thorough discussion on gear choices, racking and packing, I headed into the ice park with my friend and climbing partner, Nate Smith. I’ve taken several rock courses from him and his company – Mountain Education & Development/. He is the man when it comes to technical mountaineering instruction. He has so much passion and patience – it’s refreshing to be with a guide who has so much energy for teaching.

After climbing a pitch on top rope to warm up, we set up for me to do a mock lead on the ice. Then, I set up an anchor, belayed him up and we transitioned to rappelling off an A-thread on vertical ice. I have to say, before today, I was so intimidated by V-threads, ice screw placements and ice climbing in general. Placing pro and doing a mock lead on a top rope line was confidence inspiring. Once you understand the motion (moving in triangles, trusting your feet and standing up), it feels very secure. Swinging ice axes is fun and strangely gratifying, especially when you get a killer tool placement. And placing pro – whether ice screws or v-threads – feels intuitive and is relatively simple when you get down to it. After doing a mock lead, I felt ready to send and I was stoked to take it live. It was a little scary, and I was nervous to commit to certain moves, but as I moved up the ice face, my confidence grew. I took some deep breaths, trusted my feet and kept focused on my form. When I reached the top anchors, I was all smiles! I built the anchor, clove hitched myself in, and belayed Nate up on a plaquette. It’s those moments where you step outside your comfort zone where you really progress. Without a little struggle, there’s no personal evolution. Today was one of those days for me, and afterward, I feel a few steps closer to reaching my goals in the mountains.

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Ecuador first day – Pichincha acclimitization hike

I made it to Ecuador! We arrived at our hotel, the charming Cafe Cultura, around 1 am yesterday. We promptly went to sleep and woke up to do an acclimitization hike on Rucu Pichincha, an old volcano near Quito. We were able to take a cable car to around 13,000′ and then we hiked to around 15,500′. It was strenuous and it was my first time at that elevation(by a long shot). I felt ok and I was stoked! The high elevation of the peaks in Ecuador was making me nervous because I wasn’t sure how’d I feel. Hopefully I’ll continue to feel good as we climb higher!

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Hiking Mt. Nebo, the highest peak in the Wasatch