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Suicide Chute on Mount Superior

I have a love/hate relationship with the springtime.  On the one hand, it’s awesome because you can go skiing in the morning and rock climbing or swimming or hiking or biking or even golfing (if you are into that sort of thing) in the afternoon.  But on the other hand, it is the time of rapidly disappearing snow packs, and lines and couloirs that shrivel up before our eyes.  It’s the time when a ski line will be good to go one day and undoable the next. 

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A rapidly shrinking hypodermic needle.  I’ll have to wait until next year to bag that one.

One line that stays filled in for awhile, though, is Suicide Chute on Mount Superior.  I usually like the rally up this chute late in the spring at least once to get my jollies.

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Forrest Shearer hiking up

We did it to celebrate the beginning of June and climbed it on Monday, June 1st.  After May 1st, you can park right at the base of Superior and hike straight up from there.  You don’t need your skins or anything for this one, it’s just a long, steep stairmaster.  Since I’ve skied this line a few times before and since June 1st was a warmer day, I decided to hike and ski the thing in my bikini and board shorts.

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New Shred Alert hat (love the color) and Smith Nolte sunglasses.  The Nolte is perfect for protecting a large portion of your face from the sun and elements and is my new favorite pair of sunglasses.

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The summit shot, right before it started to rain.

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Getting tubed in the cornice.

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Dropping into my line–the first half of the chute was relatively nice corn but once it opened up at the bottom, it was a mix of rock fall, sun cups and branches.

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About half way down

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The bottom of the chute.

Hiking suicide chute in the springtime is fun for the workout and great views alone.  Next, I will probably be heading up to the Baldy chutes from Alta and maybe Devil’s Castle Couloir, or I might head all the way to Mt. Shasta, California to get more spring/early summer skiing in.

Mt. Hood Summit and Ski

I awoke to the sound of ducks quacking at 12:30 am.  These weren’t your average quacking ducks–the noise was electronically generated from my cell phone alarm. 

Could it already be time to get up, I wondered, after sleeping for less than an hour and a half.  Why am I doing this?  This is insane.  I’m just going to go back to bed.

So I hit snooze, only to be awakened again at 12:45 by those ducks.

I finally motivated to sit up and get out of bed, hurriedly checking and double checking my pack, getting dressed, and eating breakfast.  Watermelon slices, hard boiled eggs, toast and earl grey tea and it was go time.

The road to Timberline was dark, foggy and slick.  The snow and rain mix was still coming down, and I worried that it might be too stormy a day to push for the summit. 

At 1:30 am, the snow cat was waiting, along with photographer Richard Hallman and his friend. We loaded up the cat and took off to head to the top of palmer chair.

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Usually when yo think about cat skiing, you think about a mellow ride up where you chit chat with friends and comfortably hang out.  This cat ride was different.  We were in some turbo charged, souped up monster cat that dropped us on the top of Palmer in 20 minutes.  Trying to skin up and move around the cat was challenging, as each turn would throw us around.

When I stepped out of the cat, the cold harsh wind slapped me across the face and rattled me to the bone.  It was snowing but I could see the stars through the flakes.  The wind continued to howl.

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Forrest Shearer, Richard Hallman, Asit Rathod and I started our journey in the dark, and our hike was illuminated only by our tiny headlamps and a sliver of a moon on a cold, dark mountain.

The first hint of daybreak:

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Hiking in the dark is a strange but wonderful activity.  Instead of being able to look up at how far you have to go, and look back at where you’ve come, you are only able to see the step ahead of you and focus on taking that.  It forces you to be mindful and live in the moment.  It also makes any approach go by more quickly.

The snow was a combination of fresh powdery wind drifts and the hardest, most frozen ice I’ve ever felt, so hard and cold you couldn’t even get a metal edge into it.  We were able to follow some ribbons of wind drifts close to the saddle of the Hogsback, where we switched to crampons and brought out the ice axes.

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As we went up the Hogsback, the earliest rays of light were beginning to come out from the East. I longed for the sun to hit my face, to warm my shivering body.  The wind was still bitterly cold and my hands were going in and out of numbness.  But my feet, with my crampons and my slipper like Dynafit Zzero boots, felt great and the rest of the climb went quickly and uneventfully.

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We were the first to arrive on the summit and blissfully enjoyed the views of Mt. Rainer, Mt. St. Helens and others as the sun first hit the peaks.  During the sunrises on Mt. Hood, the looming peak casts a shadow over the valley below.IMG_2489

I was so excited to make it over the last crux, digging my ice ax and crampons in, and finally reach the summit.  Before we did the climb, I did some research about it, and was encouraged to read that the first women to climb Mt. Hood did it in skirts in the late 1800s.  And in more recent Hood history, one woman allegedly climbed it in high heels.

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Karate kick!

We hung out on top for awhile, waiting for the snow to maybe soften, just a little, and to check out the views.  The cold wind kept slapping me in the face and chilled my bones.  I ended up running laps around the summit to keep warm, even though my legs were already slightly tired. 

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We hiked across the top of the ridge to get ready to drop in on our ski line.  The ridge was pretty thin with big exposure on both sides.  I took a few deep breaths and went back to focusing on walking, putting one foot in front of another and trying not to down either side (especially to my right where there were 3,000 feet of cliffs and ice).  I figured this would be the last crux and the rest would be joyful, easy breezy skiing.

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Skiing off the summit.

First of all, skiing down Mt. Hood is much steeper and scarier than I thought it would be.  From what I’ve gathered, skiing off the summit in good corn or softer snow is difficult because by the time the snow softens enough, so does the ice and rocks and subjects you to avalanche and rockfall danger.  There was some fresh powder, and I did enjoy some amazing turns, but in between those turns were areas of hard, glacial ice.  It’s variegated, crunchy, and throws you in unexpected ways.  Take this variability and imagine yourself on a 50 degree slope where if you fall, you either slide into a crevasse or continue down a 7,000 foot mountain.  Let’s just say the conditions kept me on my toes.

Once we got lower down, the skiing was fabulous.  The snow was soft and creamy and highly rippable.  It felt that much better to be able to open it up without worrying.  The ski down is over 7,000 vertical feet.

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We got back to the parking lot around one, almost 12 hours after we parked there.  We drove to Government camp to the Huckleberry Lodge and Restaurant to enjoy a huckleberry shake and BLT.  I’m not usually a bacon fan, but the bacon never tasted so good, after eating frozen Clif shots and frozen hard boiled eggs all morning.  One thing I love about hiking is that you can eat whatever you want before and after a big hike.

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Climbing up Mt. Hood was a new type of experience for me–skiing in a glaciel environment.  It poses a new set of dangers than what I’ve been exposed to before, but also provides a new set of rewards.  I’m so glad I made it up there, and can’t wait to plan my next summit!

Mt. Hood Summit and Ski Attempt #1

This past Saturday (May 16, 2009), I made my first attempt to summit and ski Mt. Hood.

From the moment I saw this towering glacier, I knew I had to get on top of it.  Mt. Hood whispered my name and I responded to the call.

With lines like this in the springtime, it’s a hard balance between skiing in good conditions and being safe.  We all want 7,000′ of good corn, but a few degrees can make a big difference.

I checked out the conditions on Friday, and the snow was still frozen solid at noon.  Glacial ice is different than any other type of frozen.  Instead of a solid sheet, the glacier ice is variegated, making the skiing pretty unenjoyable.

With this in mind, we decided that being on the summit by noon would be sufficient to let it soften up.  We took the Palmer lift up at 9:30 and started hiking around 9:45. 

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Saturday, unfortunately, was about 10 degrees hotter than Friday and by the time we reached the Hogsback, it was a battlefield on the summit.  One climber had been taken out by icefall and basketball size chunks were breaking off.  We turned around there, and still enjoyed 6000′ vertical of continuous skiing.

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Illumination rock, where we got some really good turns!

Tomorrow, I am heading out with photographer Richard Hallman on a 2:00 am cat ride to make another attempt.  Should be good.  Check back for more photos.

Skiing down Little Chute on Baldy in May

Check out this footage:

Alta Closing Day 2009

It’s been ages since I last updated.  I apologize.  I’ve been so busy partaking in the many activities springtime in Salt Lake has to offer.

The Alta Spring Festival was held the day before Easter and was a blast!  Thanks to everyone who came out and especially those ladies (and gentleman) who tested out the new Roxy skis.

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My dad, Jerry Gleich, testing out the Mumbo Jumbos.

Alta had their final day a week later.  It was a beautiful, sunny spring day, perfect for skiing in a costume.

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Here’s one of Alexa Miller, Sue Larson and me from Alta’s Closing day 2009.

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Alta’s Closing Day is an infamous celebration after a season of incredible skiing.  However, it helps to be prepared.  You’ll want to show up in some sort of costume, even if it’s a Hawaiian shirt over your normal ski outfit.  If it’s sunny, I will ski in one costume and then put on some extra layers before heading to the top of Alf’s High Rustler at the end of the day.  And remember to drink plenty of water and bring a backpack to carry out any trash you make throughout the day.

I was so sad to see Alta closing with so much snow, but it means there will be a long spring and early summer of backcountry touring. 

Check back soon for more pics and to hear about my hanggliding adventures lately!